Goldenscale

A pure absolute of green cognac grapes, drizzled with caramel, boozed with deep-toasted vanilla, tossed with crushed clove, spritzed with crisp apple juice, and then enweirdened with DarlingClandestine. The notes sound rich and gourmand, and Goldenscale does begin a bit like a vodka-soaked caramel apple, but as it unfolds it’s not quite the foody sweetness you’d expect. It’s fresher, mellower, stranger . . . enweirdeneder.